![]() It is probably going to be close to $100 more that the custom Glass-holes box. It has a removable front grill for maintenance. The advantage of the Ghost is that the internal box is only just over an inch front to back and the main box is external, I believe 4 1/2" front to back. They were also good enough to refer me to Reef Savy and their brand new product the Ghost Overflow: I have the option of having them make a box similar dimensions but 6" front to back to allow access to the top of the box in front of the eurobracing. The overflo is 3 1/2 inches front to back and it leaves no space for install or maintainance as it needs to be right up under the eurobrace glass. 000kit.htm ) but it won't work out as a standard product they retail. I have been very excited to use a glass-holes internal overflow box (. I want to rip out the existing overflo's and install a rear-wall mounted internal box. The tank has a brutal design for the overflo's, basically turns it into a 6'6" wide tank due to lost space from the overflo's. Euro braced so the entire top perimeter has 3 1/2 of horizontal glass. it might be the difference between a successful tank or a constant battle tank.been there done that.good luck.Looking for advice and especially any personal experience. remember, do not ever settle for something under-scale if you can afford something better. there are a lot of people here selling off their older equipment (since they upgraded), try them and you might get your next awesome piece of equipment. weird how skimmers have come along from the ones I used with wooden air-stones to now.īut like everyone has been mentioning, plan on what you want and then plan your equipment requirement. they may say that they are one volume but you really need to find out their light, medium and heavy load capacities. make sure you do your homework on your skimmers. I then upgraded to a SWC 180 and it can go longer, but I still change at least once a week. I tried to hook up a reef octopus 110 and as it works good, I was constantly emptying the smell cup (what my boy calls it). I would always go for at least double your water volume. what is nice are the ones where you have an external pump, helps with heat in your tanks and you can plumb those to where it can tee off to reactors or whatever other means you may need. you can use the PM models as a means of reference. I would get one with at least (3) chambers ( one for filter sock and skimmer, one for live rock and one for return pump). sumps have been built now where they handle a lot of your flow / filtration requirements. they work great.Īs for the sump filtration, no to bio-balls. I used (2) korillas (1400gph) to disperse this flow (couldn't afford the mp40's). ![]() I was running sps and decided to add a coupe of power heads as I didn't want the sump pump to over power the internal / mid-area space of the tank. but if this tells or helps you, I used a quiet one 3000 and had plenty of flow. So if this helps any, I had a 75g and had to change to a 90g due to a weeper in the trim. Your live rock is your nitrification filter in a reef tank. You want a sump that will have 1 section for the skimmer & filter sock, maybe one for mechanical media and return pump or something along those lines. etc.), they can be used but if not maintained will become a problem. For a reef tank you really want to get away from the wet/dry mentality (bio balls, bio bale etc. ![]() If you want to go bean that would be 3x1" drains (1 full siphon, 1 open channel, 1 emergency)Īssuming reef = corals. I would shoot for 1 over flow with 2x1" for a herbie drain along with 2x.75" for returns. With that being said, if you go the full siphon drain route, having two independent overflows is going to be a constant headache. I'm on my first full siphon drain (herbie) and will never go back to a durso. They move a ton more of water (a 1" full siphon can run close to 1700gph 24" drop) and are dead silent. You should really research into herbie drains and/or bean animal drains. For saltwater is a bio ball sump setup a good way to go for a reef tank? Thoughts and recomendations on the size of returns I need, placement, size of return pump (probably a MAG pump) I really dont want the return lines coming up behind the tank and then over the rim so I plan on drilling the tank and installing a standpipe with line loc tubing so I can direct the current flow if I want. Is one 3/4 drain enough or would it be best to drill the tank and install another overflox box and 3/4 bulkhead fitting in the opposite corner of the tank? Tank has one 3/4 bulkhead fitting in the built in overflow box. I had a 160 gal brackish water set up for 10 years so am used to the maint needs and oeration of wet/dry sump setup but would like to do this correct from the start to not start the revolving wheel on upgrades. ![]() Swore I would never do saltwater due to the costs but the gift of a 75 gal reef ready tank has got my mind thinking again.
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